What's Your Nature?

Become a Nature Up North explorer to share your encounters with wild things and wild places in New York's North Country. Post your wildlife sightings, landscape shots, photos from your outings, and even your organization's events!

rock climbing

Prelude to Overture

Some roadside routes are more exciting than others. All have unique features. Prelude to Overture, rated 5.8 YDS, is often called one of the most exposed routes of its grade in the Adirondacks. The photos above, one of me leading and 2 of my friend Loren Swears, show why. All three photos are traversing a roof system on Upper Washbowl Cliff...there's nothing but 150' of air underneath this spur of the roof. The views are simply inspiring.

Lioness Rampant (5.11d) in Panther Gorge

Adam Crofoot, Allison Rooney, and I walked by an aesthetic crack during June of 2015. Allison and I returned to it yesterday while Adam worked a project across the valley.

Marcy: Slacker Cracker/The Great Chimney/All Ryled Up

http://www.summitpost.org/marcy-s-great-chimney-aka-empty-tomb-all-ryle…

Three rock climbs on Mt. Marcy. Full details above.

One of the best kept backcountry secrets is a large vertical trap dike capped with a diagonal car-sized capstone on Mt. Marcy. It is set in a northeastern facing cliff deep in Panther Gorge and looks like a pencil-thin shadow from the summit of Mt. Haystack. This is Marcy’s Great Chimney.

Panther Gorge: Mt. Marcy: Anorthofright (5.9-)

http://www.summitpost.org/panther-gorge-mt-marcy-anorthofright-5-9/1005…

A long multi-pitch rock climb up the overhangs and obvious white streak of Mt. Marcy's white scar. Steven St. Pierre and I added this route to Marcy on August 27. 2017. ...another 20 hour day in Panther Gorge, but well worth the effort. Follow the link above for a full report and photographs.

New Routes: Mt. Marcy's Great Chimney (aka Empty Tomb) and All Ryled Up

Marcy's Great Chimney (aka Empty Tomb) & All Ryled Up-2017 June 15. (First ascent by Kevin and Jaryn DeShane) Mt. Marcy is home to a large vertical trap dike/chimney though it only looks like a pencil thin shadow from Mt. Haystack. Jaryn Deshane and I spent last Thursday on an intriguing climb, one that has taken 4 years to come to fruition. I didn't expect the route to be as clean or as varied. A couple sections had slightly overhanging trap rock..what a surprise.

Devil's Washdish Rock Climbing

My first visit to this area with friends/local climbers Adam Crofoot and Allison Rooney. The cliff is roughly 4 miles from the trailhead with a 1/4 mile bushwhack that I consider moderate. The geometry of the overhangs and slab of this 1/4 mile long cliff is astounding. Our climb was the first ascent of Adam's route, Dishin' it Out (rate 5.10b). It follows a huge overhanging corner for 100' to a slot at the top. Views include the lake to the south and the small pond below.

Climbing Beautiful ADK Anorthosite

The Adirondacks' unique geology of new mountains, old rock have weathered beautiful exposures of anorthosite perfect for climbing! A Sunday well spent climbing the classic 3 pitch climb, "Pete's Farewell". I've always driven by and seen climbers on this route and it was cool to finally be up there myself. Not to mention, the views from 200ft up!

Gothics South Face (Original Route 5.4)-2016

Eleven hours of hiking and climbing makes for a fantastic day. Welcome to technical climbing on Gothics' South Face. This is the Original Route circa 1800s rated 5.4.

McKenzie Pond Bouldering

Bouldering at McKenzie Pond Boulders outside of Saranac Lake. It was a perfect crisp day in an erratic field of glacial boulders. They are granite gneiss; a high grade metamorphic rock formed under intense heat and pressure. Fascinating stuff.